2012 Summer Cruise - day 7

Set out from Lowestoft at 08:00 heading for Orford Haven. Quarter of an hour later we were sailing nicely and making good time.

An hour later we were putting in the first reef on a rising wind. Typically, half an hour later we were shaking it out again!

By lunchtime we'd lost the wind altogether. Sandwiches were prepared and eaten in a total calm albeit with quite a swell running. On with the engine at 12:30.

An hour later we were battling into the teeth of a full on F6 with steep and seriously big waves and a foul tide. Our VMG headed resolutely into negative figures and stayed that way on both tacks.

It was obvious by now that we couldn't make the tide for Orford Haven. Dialled up the course for Harwich looking at maybe Shotley for the night but that looked like being the early hours of the morning. To our annoyance, Lowestoft was only two and a half hours away so it was turn tail and head back North with a VMG of over 9 knots!

Rik queried whether we could make it into Southwold which we'd discussed as a possible destination before setting out from Lowestoft. So I set to working it out and laying off the course, we'd get there some two hours before low water which looked a little dicey but nothing ventured nothing gained. Calling up the harbour master for advice we got a go so went for it.

The approach to the harbour was interesting to say the least with rough seas, a huge tidal stream running entrance and the engine going full blast. The big tripper rib approached the entrance getting good air over the waves (and WE were out in THAT?!) and I'm sure could have gone in ahead of us without causing any issues but chose instead to circle around and follow us in. Once we got between the pier heads it was a real struggle to creep up river against the fill force of the ebb tide. The skipper of the rib warned us off the shallow bits and into the deep water which was much appreciated.

Gradually we made progress and crept up towards the visitor moorings where the very helpful harbour master was waiting to assist us in getting alongside. A tricky ferry glide, which I'm afraid led to me grabbing the tiller off Rik rather abruptly, put us against the staging and that was another fun day at sea over and done with!

After tidying up on deck, stowing the mainsail and sorting out mooring lines and fenders, we repaired to the pub for a well earned pint That led to another pint, some food then two more.

Todays' track log ...

On the face of it, the decision to tack at about 10:00 might be seen to have been a mistake. With the benefit of hindsight we might have been better served to continue as was even though it was taking us ever further offshore. That said, given the way the wind headed us and got up a couple of hours later, we'd have simply ended up being further from shelter than was actually the case.

Nb. For some reason not a single photograph was taken all day be either myself or Rik!

2012 Summer Cruise - day 6

Alongside in Lowestoft Yacht Basin

Make and mend day as they say in the navy.

Although the day started out sunny with a moderate breeze and reasonable sea conditions, Brigantia and her crew were sorely in need of a bit of down time so we decided to remain in harbour for the day. Despite a solid nights' uninterrupted sleep (most unusual for me), both of us were still a bit tired and jaded and Brigantia was in need of some sorting out and tidying up as well.

As well as the essential jobs, we spent much of the day fiddling with technology - in my case it was the track logs from the various GPS receivers on board trying to make one good copy of our night time excursion to Sheringham Shoal.

Rik meanwhile was playing with his design for a water level meter using a cunning device to measure the capacitance between two copper strips glued to the outside of the tank. It almost but not quite worked and apparently its back to the drawing board but it shows promise

The damaged prop

Then we decided we'd best have a proper look at the outboard prop which had almost certainly been damaged when the outboard security cable somehow managed to become detached and drop down through the bottom of the well. So we hosted the engine onto the cockpit for a good look. The damage was worse than we'd thought. I cleaned up the damaged blades with pliers and a file but we urgently need a new prop.

Cleaned up with a file

A phone call to Seamark Nunn elicited the promise of a new prop - they'll pull one off a new engine if needs be - if we can get to them in Trimley or find somewhere we can get it sent to. As we definitely don't want to spend yet another night in Lowestoft that is proving tricky.

The forecast for the next few days is for somewhat breezy conditions from the South-ish so we think we'll go and hole up in the River Ore for a few days.

2012 Summer Cruise - day 4/5

Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht Club

The passage plan for the next leg of the trip was quite simple really - depart Lowestoft by 14:30 BST heading North. Nominal destination Scarborough, ETA 20:00 BST Tuesday evening. Alternate ports planned for were Blakeney, the anchorage behind Spurn Head and Grimsby.

We spent the morning sorting out everything that needed sorting such as filling up the stove with meths, topping up the outboard fuel tank and walking up to Asda for more petrol and so on.

We got under way about quarter past two and by half past we were sailing with the engine off. Fourty minutes later the engine was on again due to a lack of wind then off again after another twenty minutes as the wind picked up again.

Half an hour after that we were reefing the Genoa as things started to get a bit too exciting only to roll it back out again after twenty minutes!

Dinner cooking whilst under way

Finally as we headed into evening things settled down and we able to establish some routine. I took a break off watch then prepared sweet and sour chicken with rice for dinner - the first time we've cooked a meal under way. That went down a treat.

Progress was slow past the Scroby Sands wind farm as we fought against the adverse tidal stream. With a good working breeze we were able to make a good 2kts over the ground though which was pretty satisfactory.

Once the tide turned and with a bit more sting in the breeze we really got the hammer down. We were logging between 6 and 6.5 knots with a VMG of around 8 to 9 knots! Astonishing in a small boat like Brigantia.

Sunset over Winterton Ness was a spectacular sight which for once photographed well ...

Winterton Ness

Of course, it was too good to last. By midnight the wind speed had increased and George was struggling to keep her on course. Before Rik went off watch, we reefed down both main and Genoa.
Standing the night watch on my own was fine in itself. There was a tremendous lot of shipping out there but they were well clear of us and I found it surprisingly easy to interpret the navigation lights.

The wind was veering further and further into the West though and we were close hauled on the port tack just able to hold the course to the waypoint I'd set five miles off Cromer. Clearly we would not be able to lay a course directly for Blakeney Fairway so I held on well past the waypoint towards the Sheringham Shoal wind farm. Eventually, I decided it was time to tack although I estimated I'd still be around 40 deg shy of the course on the other tack.

I warned Rik so he wouldn't fall out of his berth and tried to tack her with the autopilot but she got caught in stays needing a lot more helm than George can deliver. Second time of asking, steering by hand, she just made it around. My estimate was spot on, the best we could do was some 40 degrees West of the direct course. To make matters worse, our VMG (velocity made good) was nowhere near what it needed to be if we were to make the morning tide at Blakeney.

It was time for some sums. Even my limited mathematical ability was up to the job of working out that we probably couldn't even make the tide under motor. Furthermore, given the sea state, entry over the bar might be out of the question anyway. Blakeney was out, no doubt about that. The same concerns would apply to Wells also. With the forecast talking about winds of F6 later in the day, that ruled out pressing on to Grimsby or Scarborough.

Yet more to concern me was that the extended outlook wasn't great either. If we did manage to make it into Blakeney without coming a cropper, we could be stuck there for days at anchor with no facilities unless we went for a paddle in the canoe. There was only one viable option, turn back to Lowestoft. It wasn't a decision I was particularly happy about. I don't think Rik was terribly impressed either when he came back on deck to find the coast was on our right instead of our left.

I am convinced however that it was the right decision.

Heading back South, unbelievably the wind backed over the next hour or two until we could no longer lay a course down the inside of the Scroby Sands even close hauled as tight as she'd go. By now I was cold, wet and pretty feed up so it wad on with the noise machine and full speed ahead.

Working vessel off Gt. Yarmouth

Mind, even at full throttle the engine could only push us through the confused chop and into the wind at about 4 knots. Fortunately, we had the tide with us and made it into harbour at a quarter to eight.
A quick hot drink and tinned breakfast later, we hit the sack for some much needed shuteye. Four hours later we were woken up by workmen firing up a Stihl saw to cut away some steelwork on the harbour wall. Tea, coffee and soup for lunch in the club house followed by a serious sort out on board to get the cockpit tent up and the wet gear hanging to dry under it.

The rest of today will be sleep, eat, beer then sleep again. Plans for tomorrow are still very much up in the air. The forecast for the next few days is frankly pants but we can't stay here for a week!

The track log ...

As can be seen, we were a hell of a lot closer to Blakeney than to Lowestoft when I made the call to turn back. However, the wind was blowing due West and rising, the seas were getting up and our ETA at Blakeney Bar was going to be no earlier than 05:30, probably later.

That would have put us at the entrance to Blakeney on a falling tide in wind and sea conditions that could well have made entry over the bar impossible. If we couldn't get into Blakeney, Wells would be no better and with F6 forecast for later in the day pressing on Northwards towards the Humber was out of the question.

Galling though it was at the time, and later for that matter, it was a good call to turn back.

2012 Summer Cruise - day 3

We had a rather disturbed night due to an anchoring mishap leaving us high and dry and leaning over at quite an angle for several hours.

Last night, as we turned the corner into the reach where we intended to anchor, we encountered one yacht already anchored there at one end leaving a vast expanse of space for us to use.Motoring a hundred yards or so beyond them, we picked our spot and turned in towards the bank. It being all but slack water, the anchored yacht was lying across the river into the wind which was blowing at ninety degrees straight off the bank.

Following the principle of always anchoring into whichever is stronger, the tide or the breeze, I asked Rik to motor us slowly towards the bank until the depth gauge read 5 metres at which point I'd let go the anchor. This we duly did and having gone astern to dig it in we ended up sitting there fat and happy in 8m of water.

A large steel ketch give into view and proceeded to anchor between us and the other yacht. We were mystified as to why he motored into the bank as we had done but then turned parallel to it, motored forward, then backed up before dropping the hook. Of course, what he was doing was motoring the length of his swinging area with an eye on the depth before laying his anchor in the middle if the length he'd made sure was clear of nasties.

If we'd done that, we wouldn't have swung out of the deep water onto a solid lump of mud of just the right dimensions to park Brigantia on! Spending the wee small hours at a severe angle of heel hoping and praying that we wouldn't fall over completely was not our idea of a peaceful or restful night!

I shall be wise to that one in future. No doubt I'll find something else to get wrong!

Orford Ness lighthouse

Despite this mishap, we were up and away before half past eight and back on our track northwards. As we motored out of the River Ore, we initially encountered a foul tide and very little wind so continued on under power.

By nine thirty we were sailing dead before the wind in a modest breeze. So much for the forecast F4 from the South West. As the day wore on, the breeze strengthened but stayed resolutely behind us. Never the less, despite a certain amount of rolling, we had a storming sail making close to hull speed through the water at times.

We experimented with poling out the genoa using the tatty telescopic boat hook and this worked a treat for a while until the end of the pole gave up under the strain. Without a doubt this is something worth further thought although the cost of a commercial whisker pole is a bit prohibitive. Typically, of course, they sell a lightweight pole quite cheaply in the US which would be ideal for our purposes but not in the UK

The breeze was really picking up from astern and eventually we rolled up the genoa altogether and sailed on under main alone to cut the horrible rolling that gets on your nerves after a while when sailing downwind. Even so, if we'd slept properly the night before I'd have been very tempted to press on through the night as originally planned but fatigue was bound to set in so we laid a course for Lowestoft harbour.

A couple of miles out, around two thirty in the afternoon, we started the engine and I went "on deck" to lower and stow the main (we'd already rolled up the Genoa half an hour earlier to cut the rolling as the breeze had really picked up now.

It was a sunny day so I wasn't wearing foulies. It was however sufficiently roly poly that I reached for a safety line and clipped on. Good job too because just as I heaved the mainsail down we were hit by a sudden thunderstorm. With no warning at all the wind strength went up several notches and the sea went from a bit lumpy to seriously rough.

Frantically signalling to Rik to keep her bows on into the waves, I clung on the the mast whilst the main flogged out to leeward. Nothing I could do about that, there was no way I could get hold of it and haul it inboard. It would have been equally stupid to try and get back to the cockpit.

Stormy weather

I became intimately acquainted with significant quantities of North Sea whilst Rik got quite thoroughly rained on as we turned tail and ran away from the harbour entrance. As Rik later said, it seems counter-intuitive to motor away from the harbour but in that sort of situation, your far safer standing back out to sea than trying to get into a narrow harbour entrance with very solid things to hit all around you.

We were making slow headway through some rather big waves - at one point, from my perch on the cabin roof, I was looking down, down and even further down as Brigantias' bow reached out into space over a terrific wave trough. Down she went and as the bow dipped it crossed my mind that waves come in sets and what goes down must surely come up again. Sure enough, the bow plunged into the face of the following wave and threw a heap of water across the deck to add to my woes. Brigantia however took it all in her stride and showed no signs of being overwhelmed which was quite a confidence booster.

Eventually, as the storm cell blew through, I was able to scramble down through the forehatch and regain the cockpit via the cabin! Some while later we managed to get the main under control and some ties on before turning back towards the harbour.

Lowestoft Harbour entrance

We finally made port nearly an hour and a half later than would have otherwise been the case having lost exactly 1 hour and 20 minutes running off and then clawing our way back to where we first started. Nailing her to the pontoon and putting away just the essentials we beat a hasty retreat to the club bar stopping to chat briefly with another skipper who'd been caught by the storm cell as well.

Beer!

He, stout fella, joined us in the bar for a couple of beers and a mutual "I don't believe it" session despite having spent about 27 hours at sea single handing down from Grimsby. He headed off for some well earned rest and we stayed put! We'll be back on board shortly and hitting the sack no doubt as we're both just about out on our feet. We think tomorrow is going to be a stay put and sort out day as the cabin is a complete shambles after this afternoon!

Later, Rik pulled up the weather radar data on his smart phone and we could see the thunderstorm cell develop from nothing just inland of Lowestoft before shooting out to sea, giving us a damn good thrashing and then fizzling out to nothing not much more than an hour later. The general comment around the yacht basin was that it took everybody by surprise and was a most unusual weather event.

The mad dash back offshore - the track log illustrates how fortunate we were that the best direction to head in to cope with the sudden rough seas was also the best direction to head in to avoid shallow water and sandbanks (something which was a cause of great concern to Rik at the helm as neither he nor I could see the chart or the plotter, I had other things on my mind at the time!)

2012 Summer Cruise - day 2

Early morning tranquillity at North Fambridge

It was a very early start this morning with the kettle on at a quarter to five. That which revives to individual choice and taste duly drunk, we diced into the showers on the basis that we might not get another chance for some time.

Back on board, some final sorting out was sorted out, the water tank topped up and the shore power disconnected. We were under way by 7:15, an hour before high water but a little later than I'd intended.
Half an hour later we had the Genoa set followed ten minutes later by the main. With the engine off once clear of Burnham we sailed on downriver.

Wake shot!

It wasn't to last however and by the time we reached the Whitaker Channel the wind had died and it was on with the engine. We motored all the way up the Wallet with a couple of abortive attempts to get sailing again along the way.

Rik had an hour or so off watch for a nap and then knocked out a round of cheese sarnies for a late lunch. It now being nearly 3pm and with little sign of the forecast strengthening breeze from the South West, we discussed options and laid a course for the Pye End buoy heading for Hamford Water for the night.

Sure enough, the breeze now started to pick up leading to a rethink and the decision to put her back on course for Orford. By now we were motor sailing and once we'd crossed the Harwich shipping lane, having slowed down to pass behind the dredger which was heading out, it was off with the engine and some proper sailing at last.

Spot the pot markers

Although the breeze had picked up and now continued to strengthen, far from being the perfect South Westerly, it was somewhat East of South and with a roly quartering swell and a roly quartering shifty breeze it was an interesting and at times challenging sail.

It was made somewhat more interesting for a while as we strained our eyes to spot the plethora of grungy pot markers littered all over Felixstowe Ledge. Granted the fishermen need to make a living but they are putting people at risk. I'd hate to try and make my way over this leg of the route in the dark.

Orford Haven safe (ish!) water mark

We arrived off Orford Haven just past half past six, about forty five minutes before high water. Perfect timing in fact. Given the sea and wind conditions I decided discretion was the order if the day and we dropped the sails close to the safe water mark at the beginning of the entrance channel and motored in.

A couple of big rolls made life interesting as we entered the channel including one that would have sent the Nav table flying if I hadn't got a foot on it just in time!


 Once into the river we were astonished to see our speed over the ground hitting 8 knots. Even close to high water there was a fair old current running.

Abrahams Bosum anchorage at sunset

We dropped the anchor at half past seven in 8 metres of water around the back of Doveys island. Coffee and dinner ensued followed by an issue of beer to the crew.

A locker quarrying exercise put approximately 9 litres of fuel into the main tank. We were motoring for 7hrs11m so, allowing for the main tank having been slightly overfilled the other day, we used approx 1.4 litres per hour.

We're about to discuss plans for tomorrow over the last of the beer ration then it'll be an early night!

 Track log for the day ...

2012 Summer Cruise - day 1

Pile of kit and stores

Brigantia already moored up when I arrived

Tins stowed in the seat locker

Rik arrived first and fetched Brigantia up onto the pontoon. Much head scratching and care taken over stowing the large quantity of supplies.

Replenished fuel stocks - well over 50l on board
Pub, grub, beer and plans. Now bed ready for an early start

PS. Third attempt, previous two lost, Hence brevity!

The countdown begins ...

It's T-24 (hours unfortunately) before I cast off the shackles of everyday existance and set off on a wild adventure ...

Oh all right, so I'm getting a bit carried away again :)

Never the less, the excitement is building with one more night at work to go before I can beat a rapid path down the A14 to the boat.

The new toy arrived this morning and was waiting for me when I awoke. Neat little unit and straightforward to operate. It'll be handy in the cockpit but it comes with yet another dedicated 12v charging lead. I'm getting them confused and mixed up so I think there is going to have to be a charging lead labelling session at some point when we have an idle moment!

Solved the "where the hell are all my socks / pants / t-shirts?" problem (a key drawback of three blokes in one house) by nipping in to Tescos on the way to work last night and buying several packs of each! Once the towels and fleeces currently going around and around in the tumble dryer are done I can finish my kit bag packing.

Then there is the nav bag and nav laptop to pack back up, I've just about finished sorting the paperwork and what have you out at last. The last piece of the puzzle arrives courtesy of Tescos home delivery later this afternoon. I'll get some stuff loaded in the car tonight before going to work then chuck the last of it in before I leave tomorrow.

And that brings us to the big issue ... what's the weather forecast looking like?

Encouraging I'd say! The most important thing being wind - how much and where from? It looks like F3/4 is the order of business for the first few days of the trip starting off in the North West, giving us a beam reach downriver, before swinging round into the West and generally staying there, somewhere between North West and South West, right through until the end of the week.

Next Thursday looks a bit dicey though ...

... with F5 to F6 (and probably at least F6 in the gusts) all down the East Coast however that belt of breezier conditions, generated by a low over the North Sea, is forecast to move away to the East by the following day.

Into the second week and it looks OK in so far as it goes. The forecast suggests normal wind patterns for the time of year (South Westerlys in the 10 to 20 knots range) but then out beyond the immediate outlook it tends to trend towards statistical averages as you'd expect so I wouldn't place too much reliance on that!

Wind aside, the general outlook is for a sunny weekend, if perhaps a little cooler than of late, and then fairly average conditions during the week ahead. Some sunshine, some showers, maybe (and this could be important) a bit of mist here and there.

If the forecast stays as is, and provided the strong winds forecast for next Thursday don't extend beyond a 24 hour window as the forecast for the middle weekend of our cruise firms up, it's looking good for plan A!